washington address book

It feels bit bittersweet to have left DC after nearly five years here in total. While I guess I always knew I would leave eventually, this city has felt more like home to me than any of the other cities I've lived in since I left home for college. Here are some of my favorite places from over the years, including a few spots outside of the district itself. I'm sure I missed some and might update this list/map periodically if I think of them. As always, feel free to reach out if you're looking for anything in particular. 

Vivian's Washington, DC Address Book

To see / do:

Museums and Galleries
National Gallery: Not only my favorite museum in DC but my favorite museum in the entire country. I have spent countless hours here over the years poring over collections and exhibitions with pieces spanning millennia. Go walk across the Multiverse light sculpture surrounding the walkway between the East and West galleries. Go on a guided tour at the top of the hour at the Rotunda. Go do a scavenger hunt to interact with the art in a different way. Go to National Gallery Nights and Jazz in the Garden in the summer. I will miss the National Gallery the most when I leave. 

National Portrait Gallery and Smithsonian American Art Museum: Technically two museums in one building; I usually walk back and forth between the two when I visit. This one is open until 7:00pm so it's easier to squeeze in before dinner, and it's a bit more centrally located than the Smithsonians along the National Mall. The Kogod Courtyard is a beautiful oasis in the center of the two museums and worth checking out on its own. 

National Museum of Women in the Arts: One of the only museums dedicated solely to displaying work by female artists. The collection has works that span centuries but most of the art on display is more recent. I loved the Rodarte exhibit they had in 2018. You normally will need to pay for a ticket, but they also offer free admission on a couple select days a month.

Hirshhorn Museum: The Hirshhorn is the city's largest modern and contemporary art museum in a hollow, circular building on the south side of the National Mall. My favorite exhibits have all been the special ones, like Rafael Lozano-Hemmer’s Pulse series (2018) where you could upload your heartbeat to the hundreds of flickering lightbulbs installed in the curved hallway or the Yayoi Kusama One with Eternity (2022) Infinity Mirror rooms, including a new one that debuted in DC. A bonus: tickets were much easier to get than the sister exhibit at the Tate Modern in London.  

Renwick Gallery: A smaller gallery across the street from the White House (and technically an offshoot of the Smithsonian American Art Museum) that features rotating exhibits of craft objects. I miss David Best's Temple, an intricate wood installation that was a part of the Burning Man collection in 2018, for feeling like a non-religious spiritual sanctuary in the middle of downtown.

Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum: One of the DC classics dedicated to aviation and space. This one seems to have surged in popularity in recent years and requires booking tickets in advance. If you have access to a car, the Udvar-Hazy Center near the Dulles Airport has an even more impressive collection of historic air and spacecraft.

Smithsonian Natural History Museum: Another DC classic focused on natural history. This is the most popular museum in the city and contains some of the most famous natural artifacts in the world, from life-size replicas of extinct animals to the Hope Diamond. My best friend visited DC in middle school and brought me back a set of postcards of some of the gems on display; many years later I finally got to see them in person in the gems and minerals hall.

National Museum of African American History and Culture: The latest addition to the museums on the National Mall and one of the tougher museums to gain entry into given its popularity. The building itself is beautiful from the outside, and the exhibits are thoughtfully curated to demonstrate the impact of African American history across the centuries.

Planet Word: This is a smaller museum dedicated to language nestled in the downtown area, and the last "new" museum for me before I left. The interactive exhibits were engaging, especially the ones on advertisement copy and where words in the English language come from.

Dupont First Fridays: A dozen or so galleries near Dupont Circle open their doors to the public in the evenings on the first Friday of each month. Some artists will come to their own exhibits to talk about their work, and the neighborhood has many great restaurants to check out before or after an art walk.

Sights

Tidal Basin: Tidal Basin is most famous for the cherry blossoms in the spring, which I try to catch every year. I recommend taking an hour or so to walk along the entire perimeter, although it will likely take longer if you're looking to do the full loop during peak bloom in late March or early April. The Jefferson Memorial sits on the southeast side of the reservoir and is my favorite of the monuments on the Mall. 

National Mall and Monuments: I almost forgot to include this on my list because it seems obvious, but the main attraction that many of the museums and sights I listed are on or by the Mall. Walk up the Lincoln Memorial to look across the reflecting pool and walk across the entire length of it to reach the U.S. Capitol; there is something to be said about the grandeur of the expansive lawns and white marble, especially against the lush green backdrop of the verdant leaves from late spring to early fall.

U.S. Capitol: The U.S. Capitol is technically a working building, although you're unlikely to actually meet any Members of Congress during visiting hours since most floor votes take place in the early evening. You can only see the Capitol via tour group or as a guest of a Congressional staff with their badge; if you're a U.S. resident and available to do a tour on a weekday, I recommend inquiring with your local Representative or Senator's office for a more comprehensive tour because they take you to more spots than the official guided ones. I used to be the intern giving these tours to visitors from my corner of Washington state during my first year in the city, and talking about the art and history was my favorite part of that job. (Tours of the White House are significantly harder to get but can also be arranged by your Member's office.)

Library of Congress: This is one of the largest libraries in the world and the main Thomas Jefferson building has beautiful architecture. You'll need a Library of Congress library card to enter the floor of the main reading room (guess who had one), but otherwise the building is free to enter and wander around. The cafeteria on the sixth floor of the James Madison building was the best spot to get lunch when I worked on the Hill.

National Arboretum: The original Capitol columns found a new home here and they look like well preserved classical ruins from afar. This is another good spot for early spring blooms or expansive park walks in the fall. The National Bonsai Museum here is fun to wander through.

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens: DC's pink flowers are not just for spring; the lotuses and water lilies at Kenilworth are in bloom in late June and July. The lotuses grow to up to seven feet tall!

Hillwood Estate, Museum, and Garden: Marjorie Merriweather Post's DC home is well worth a visit for the French-style interior design and her extensive collection of Russian art, which includes two Fabergé eggs. The gardens were beautiful too, although I didn't spend much time there due to the pouring rain. The afternoon tea at the Merriweather Cafe is also probably one of the most affordable afternoon teas I've seen in the district. 

Dumbarton Oaks Museum and Gardens: The museum is free and has a collection of Byzantine and Pre-Colombian art, but the real attraction here is the sprawling gardens, which are only open in the afternoon and require booking tickets in advance. The orangerie in particular is stunning. If you are around in April, Dumbarton Oaks has some of the best wisteria.

Miscellaneous
Politics and Prose: George and I came up here once every couple of months even though it's a bit out of the way. I'm constantly impressed by how quickly they update their display shelves across new releases and older books I hadn't heard of before; I always come away with dozens of new titles to add to my hold list at the library, and the few books I bought in the past two years have been from here exclusively (I have commitment issues: I only buy books I know I want on my "forever shelf" if and when I finally stop moving). At least 60% of the books I read in the past two years were titles I saw first at Politics and Prose. 

Dupont Farmer's Market: This farmer's market has grown on me, even though it's a bit pricey. Go before 10:30am to beat the crowds. I've gotten half a dozen different kinds of loose leaf tea from Pearl Fine Tea. Sundays only.

Georgetown: Do neighborhood recommendations count? Even though it's a bit out of the way from the metro, Georgetown is the most pleasant neighborhood in the district to walk around. Go to Book Hill to take in the views; go to the waterfront and rent some kayaks or just walk along the Potomac; go to M St and Wisconsin Ave for shopping. There's a French market here in May, and the residential neighborhoods in the fall have some of the best fall foliage in the city. 

Embassy Row: Another one that is more of a neighborhood, but this stretch of Massachusetts Ave in the NW section of the district is one of the most DC walks you can do outside of the National Mall. There is a high concentration of embassies and diplomatic residences along this stretch, so you can see the various country flags, architectural features, and other design features from the street. While the embassies are generally not open to the public, you can go on tours of Lars Anderson House, one of the mansions along Embassy Row that's been turned into a museum and sometimes wedding venue.

Kramers: It was still Kramerbooks & Aftewords when I first came here in 2018, and I will always be a sucker for the bookstore + restaurant/cafe combos. I used to come here more frequently when I worked in Dupont Circle in my earlier DC years and I always find myself wandering in when I'm early to a dinner in the neighborhood.

To eat: 

Le Diplomate: My favorite restaurant in DC, even after six years since my first visit. I always look forward to the three (!) types of bread they serve with whipped butter to start, and have never ordered a dish I didn't like. Get the warm shrimp salad, macaroni au gratin, foie gras parfait, onion soup, bouillabaisse on a Friday, steak frites, duck breast, brown butter scallops...and of course the creme brûlée for dessert (or creme l'orange in the fall). 14th Street.

Rasika: Rasika is one of the DC restaurants people who haven't visited have heard about and strikes a nice balance for an upscale Indian restaurant between recognizable dishes and modern takes. They're famous for the palak chaat, and my favorite dish is the black cod. The West End location typically has more tables available than Penn Quarter. 

Tonari: This has become one of my favorite restaurants in DC and my first foray into Japanese-Italian fusion food, which blends Japanese ingredients and flavors with Italian mainstays like pizza and pasta. Chinatown.

Lapis: This was my first intro to Afghan cuisine and offers a nice combination of more traditional dishes and incorporating the flavors in familiar brunch offerings during the day. Try the Afghan dumplings and the firnee for dessert. Adams Morgan.

Maydan: This Middle Eastern/North African restaurant was one of the most difficult reservations I've ever secured but I finally made it during my second to last week in town. The tawle (family-style set menu) offered an amazing spread of different dishes and saves you the hassle of figuring out what combination of things you should get from the a la carte menu. U Street.

Off the Record: The most DC hotel bar in the basement level of the Hay-Adams, right across the street from the White House. Whatever you're thinking of when you think "where can I go in the city that looks like a gentleman's club and make me feel like I'm in a political TV show and ready to discuss a compromise on the latest bill," it probably looks like Off the Record does. The drinks here are pricey but they come with political cartoon coasters and warm nuts. Downtown.

Little Pearl: I never made it to Pineapple and Pearls, but their more affordable offshoot Little Pearl offers a great pre-fixe dining experience for a fraction of the cost. You may get seated at the big table with other patrons, so it's up to you if you want to mingle or not. The warm cookie and mini glass bottle of milk to go at the end of the meal was a nice touch. Capitol Hill.

Old Ebbitt Grill: Allegedly the oldest saloon in Washington. This is my personal favorite of the "power lunch" restaurants near the White House even though there are at least a half dozen restaurants in this area that serve similar menu options. The oyster happy hour is one of the main attractions. Downtown.

José Andrés restaurants: These always end up on my DC restaurant recommendations for a number of reasons: the restaurants are spacious so tables are not too hard to come by; José Andrés is DC's most famous chef (both for his restaurants and for his humanitarian work with World Central Kitchen); and the Penn Quarter location of most of his restaurants are easily accessible from a day of touristing at the National Mall. My favorite is Zaytinya, the Mediterranean restaurant of the bunch. China Chilcano (Peruvian-Japanese-Chinese fusion), Jaleo (Spanish tapas) and Oyamel (Mexican) are all excellent too. If you're feeling extra fancy, there is also Minibar, one of the only 2 Michelin-starred restaurants in DC, and Barmini, its cocktail bar. Penn Quarter.

Un Je Ne Sais Quoi: A French patisserie in Dupont Circle with some of the best pastries in town. They are most famous for their merveilleux, a dessert made with meringue, whipped cream, and ganache. Come early to avoid the lines, especially on weekends. Dupont Circle.

Dolcezza: My favorite gelato, quite possibly of anywhere. They have a solid collection of regular flavors (coffee and cookies and roasted strawberry) and the best seasonal flavors throughout the year. The Portuguese lady checking our tickets for an attraction in Porto said that this was her favorite place she went to in DC when we were chatting about how George and I were from the area. Maybe it will be your favorite spot too? Multiple locations; after the Logan Circle one closed, I went to the one at CityCenter the most. 

Sushi Taro: My favorite Japanese restaurant in DC. The lunch sets pre-pandemic were the best value higher-end sushi in town, although I believe they are dinner only now. The fish is high quality but the standout to me are the desserts: not too sweet. 17th St. 

Tiger Dumplings: This became a regular spot as soon as it opened, and not just because it was a stone's throw from where we lived. Tiger Dumplings has a more modern take on dumplings (especially the potstickers) but the flavors are well balanced and the presentation is beautiful. If you're hungry, Set A and Set B are a great way to taste most of the menu beyond just the dumplings. Clarendon.

Northside Social Coffee & Wine: Another local fave with great coffee, pastries, and hot food if you're here to linger. We came here a lot for the quiches and breakfast sandwiches too. Clarendon.

A&J Restaurant: For Northern Chinese breakfast foods, A&J is the place to go. I prefer these dishes to the more popular Cantonese dim sum, so I'm glad I was able to find this in the area. Multiple locations; we typically went to Annandale. 

Peter Chang: A classic Chinese mainstay for the DMV area. We went to the no-frills location in Arlington most frequently but honestly any of the restaurants in the Peter Chang universe are great. Mama Chang in Fairfax has a more extensive menu; Peter Chang in McLean has some great homestyle dishes and lovely decor; Chang Chang in Dupont Circle is a bit more upscale but has a lot of the same dishes.

Kogiya: My favorite all you can eat Korean BBQ in Annandale; the sauces and banchan are great here, and the portions are generous. Annandale.

Soricha Tea & Theater: Ending this list on a sweet note. The bingsu is the obvious highlight, but the ambiance of calming scenes projected on the wall (especially on a rainy day) and Korean tea and coffee offerings made this place worth the 25 minute drive to just sit and relax for an hour or two. Annandale.

Honorable mentions: Wiseguy Pizza (pizza); Toryumon (Japanese); Teaism (Asian fusion); Yellow (Levantine cafe); Dua (Indonesian coffee); Baked & Wired (cupcakes); Pho 75 (pho); Ambar (Balkan); Carbonara (Italian); Bob's Shanghai 66 (Chinese); Peking Gourmet Inn (Chinese); Tachibana (Japanese).

xoxo, vivian

tokyo and seoul address books

I recently got back from a two week trip to Japan and Korea and I'm already counting down the days until I can go back again. It's been over five years since my last trip to East Asia, and I think I forgot (or maybe I just didn't appreciate before) how much more comfortable my day to day experience is in these cities, despite not knowing Japanese or Korean. I love the ease of public transportation and how everyone queues up for the next train. I love that the replacement-level food—from the convenience store onigiris and kimbaps to the train station bentos and hot milk tea in the vending machines to the grab-and-go food stalls—is inexpensive but delicious. I love that the clothes fit me off the rack at stores that only sell items in one size. 

George and I started in Tokyo, spent a few days in Hakone, Nagoya, Nara, and Osaka, and then headed back to Tokyo to meet up with the group of friends we were traveling with. From there, we spent 3 full days in Tokyo and almost 4 full days in Seoul. I didn't include the spots we went to in the other Japanese cities in my map below since I only visited a handful of places in each respective city, but feel free to reach out if you'd like those recommendations too. 

Vivian's Tokyo Address Book

To see / do: 

Meguro River: For a nice morning stroll along a tree-lined river, head to Meguro. This spot is most famous for its cherry blossoms in the spring; while we were too late for peak bloom (and also peak crowds), we caught some of the final few lingering cherry blossoms when we got there in mid-April.

Tsutaya Daikanyama: One of the most beautiful bookstores I've ever visited. While there are Tsutayas all over Tokyo and the rest of the country, the one at Daikanyama T-Site has especially gorgeous modern interiors and sun-dappled paths between buildings. 

Shibuya Crossing: The Shibuya Scramble Crossing outside of Shibuya Station is famous for being the most famous pedestrian crossings in the world; an estimated 2.4 million people walk across it daily. We were in the area on a rainy day, so watching the mass of umbrellas move across the street was a sight to behold.

Shop in Harajuku and Omotesando: Harajuku and Omotesando are two famous shopping neighborhoods located next to each other. Harajuku's most popular street, Takeshita Dori, caters more towards a younger crowd, but the shops nearby cover everything from thrift store and consignment deals (I picked up a vintage Hermès scarf here) to main street brands. Omotesando is more upscale but has its share of independent boutiques, cafes, and dessert shops. 

Yoyogi Park and Meiji-jingu Shrine: For a break from the city in the city, head to Yoyogi Park and Meiji Shrine, just outside of Harajuku station. This park is filled with a lush green forest of 100,000 trees, open lawn spaces, Meiji Shrine, and its gardens.

Tsukiji Market: For fresh seafood, Tsukiji Market is the place to go first thing in the morning. While the wholesale fish selling relocated to Toyosu, many of the restaurants and shops in the original location remain open. Get to the market early, like before 8am early, to beat the crowds.

teamLab Planets: This was one of the only activities our group of eight booked tickets for a few weeks in advance, given the limited capacity per hour. I went to the teamLab popup in Taipei years ago and remembered it as one of the most interesting art experiences I've ever had; teamLab Planets did not disappoint. The experience was much more immersive than the temporary exhibit I visited in 2017. Here, you wander barefoot through the museum, wading through water and strolling through gardens—some real, some projected onto surfaces with light—and mirrored rooms to connect with the spaces that reimagine reality to blur the boundaries between yourself and the artwork.

Senso-ji: Asakusa is home to one of the largest and most popular Buddhist temples, Senso-ji. There is a shopping street filled with various snacks and souvenirs along the pathway between the gate and shrine. 

Ueno Park: A large park near Ueno Station that has a zoo, an assortment of temples, and a collection of museums nearby. I've only been to this park in the early morning or later in the evening when most of the attractions are closed, but it's worth visiting for a stroll around the park itself. 

Tokyo Metropolitan: For city views, head to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building's observation deck. Entrance is free, and it's not too far from Shinjuku station. 

Golden Gai: A popular bar neighborhood with narrow alleyways and buildings from the pre-war era. It's a pretty stark contrast from the neon lights and tall buildings in the surrounding parts of Shinjuku. I didn't go into any of the bars myself, but the small joints seem cozy and perfect for if you're looking for a casual but unique experience.

To eat: 

Before I get into my recommendations, I want to caveat that Tokyo is one of those cities where it's very hard to go wrong with food. Some of the best meals I had were places we wandered into serendipitously or picked primarily for the location, like the bento box I picked up at a train station convenience store or the izakaya in a residential neighborhood a block from our Taito Airbnb. I love to eat, but I'm generally not one to wait in a line for more than half an hour or make reservations for exclusive restaurants months in advance. That said, the list below includes many of the restaurants we intentionally sought out, either based on recommendations from friends (or friends of friends) or from research before the trip. 

Ichiran: Ramen with tonkotsu (pork) broth, and my personal favorite ramen of this trip. As with many ramen stall restaurants in Japan, these have ticket machines at the door where you to pre-order and pay for your meal. Ichiran has a bit more customization compared to other ramen shops, and I appreciated being able to choose everything from the doneness of my noodles to the spice level. Multiple locations; I went to the one in Harajuku.

Hayashi: Another ramen spot, this time with a double soup broth, which is a combination of fish broth and pork bone broth. This place only has ten seats, so line up early if you're interested. We got there about ten minutes before opening on a rainy day and got seated fairly quickly, but the line tripled during the time we were eating. Shibuya.

Tsujita: If you like ramen but want to try something a little different, try tsukemen, a dry(ish) noodle dish where you dip cold noodles into a thick, hot broth. Multiple locations; I went to the one in Ginza. I also love the tsukumen at Taishoken; the restaurant where the dipping noodle was first invented. I've only had Taishoken in SF, but it's a Japanese chain so there are multiple locations around Tokyo as well. 

Tsurutontan: My first meal of the trip! The udon here comes in massive bowls and tons of customizations. This was probably the most spacious restaurant we went to on this trip. Multiple locations; I went to the one in Shinjuku.

Manten Sushi: Affordable omakase spot in Ginza that we booked a few weeks in advance. This was my first time having omakase, and Manten was a steal (approx. $50 USD), considering we had something like 17 courses for the experience. Marunouchi.

Yamawarau Shabu-Shabu: Great shabu-shabu (Japanese style hot pot) spot in Ginza that was able to accommodate our large group with a day's notice. I think I prefer shabu-shabu over Chinese hot pot because the broth isn't as oily as Chinese hot pots tend to be. Ginza.

Ginza Akebono: This shop in Ginza sells all different kinds of Japanese desserts, perfect for if you want to try a quick bite to take with you. I always gravitate towards daifuku, the mochi filled with red bean paste and fresh strawberries. Ginza.

For next time: I'll blame the rainy weather and finite number of meals I can eat in a day, but there's still so much Japanese food I want to try in this city that will have to wait until my next visit! At the top of that list is Kagari, a chicken ramen shop that some of our friends said was the best ramen they've ever had (my group went to have tonkatsu that day, and while the katsu was really good I don't know if I could say it was life changing the way I heard this chicken ramen with truffle was). I'd also like to visit Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu, the izakaya featured in Kill Bill, as well as some spots to try gyu-katsu (beef katsu), omurice and other yoshoku (Japanese takes on Western cuisine). I also wish I had more time to seek out desserts like qu'il fait bon, a cake chain with long queues, or Asakusa Silk Pudding, which didn't open until midday after we left the area. 

Four days in Seoul didn't feel like enough time to do and see everything I wanted to either, but this is a city I plan on visiting again so maybe it's good to save some things to do and eat for a future trip. We stayed in an Airbnb in Itaewon, which seemed like a central location for getting to the different neighborhoods we wanted to go to. The hills in this area were no joke, and while there were a fair number of transit options, they were a bit on the far side from our location so we usually ended up taking taxis on the way back home most evenings. 

Vivian's Seoul Address Book

To see / do: 

N Seoul Tower: After checking into our Airbnb in Itaewon, we headed out and up towards the direction of Seoul Tower, the closest landmark in our sightline. We ended up hiking around Namsan Park getting lost and finding trails that eventually got us to the N Seoul Tower observatory area just in time for golden hour and the sunset. On our way down, we caught the Namsan cable car for some final panoramic views from the hills before returning to the bustling city below. 

Gyeongbokgung Palace: The largest of the five palaces in Seoul. We got here in the late afternoon a couple hours before they closed, so we spent most of our time taking photos in our rented hanboks, which got us free admission into Gyeongbokgung (or any of the palaces). It was a fun experience to see everyone dressed up and made for some great group photos. 

Seoul Forest: Seoul Forest feels more like a city park than a forest per se despite the name. My favorite part was the bridge to the riverside section by the Han River, which had views of the city from the water. The surrounding neighborhood between Seoul Forest and the metro stop also had a lot of cute coffee shops and boutiques.

Ikseon-dong Hanok Village: Ikseon-dong Hanok Village is a pedestrian-only area with narrow alleys lined with small boutiques, cafes, and restaurants housed in more traditional architecture. I wish we had more time exploring the hanoks but unfortunately we only had a couple hours to kill here before we had to head to the airport. The cafes here were all so pretty and the drinks and desserts looked amazing, but the lines at some of the more ~aesthetic ones were too long for us to check out this time. 

Leeum Museum: The museum is free but requires booking tickets online for individual exhibits in advance. The contemporary art exhibit was sold out for the day that we wanted to go to, but the traditional Korean art section was beautifully curated. 

Namdaemun Market: During the day, Namdaemun is a popular market for all kinds of goods and worth visiting if you're in the mood to shop. We came here at night for some street food before dinner when most of the non-food stalls were closed.

Gwangjang Market: Gwangjang Market is a more traditional food market and is one of the oldest and largest markets in the city. There are dozens of stalls and booths for all kinds of Korean food. We came here after a big dinner one night so I only got to try a couple of snacks, so this is on my list for revisiting someday on an empty stomach. 

Hongdae: We spent the better part of one day in Hongdae, a trendy neighborhood near a few of the city's universities. During the day, the boys went to play games at a PC bang out here while us girls went shopping instead. I hear this is a fun area for nightlife too; most of the group went to karaoke and clubs one night and had a great time. I gave George one of my cameras so once I get my film back I'll see what I missed out on.

Myeongdong: Myeongdong is a popular shopping district and very central. We kept stopping here for a few hours at a time because of how convenient it was on the way to or from other parts of the city. 

To eat: 

I have a similar note to my Tokyo to eat section for Seoul—it seems very difficult to have a bad meal here. The convenience store offerings here are a bit different but also excellent, with next-level options for instant ramen, from tteokbokki-like instant udon or individual soft-boiled eggs to make the meal more complete in the refrigerated section, while the random restaurants we walked into that had unassuming decor and lots of locals were both delicious and inexpensive. A lot of the restaurants below were recommendations from friends, and I still have a bunch of bookmarks to places I didn't have time to check out before I left. 

Woo Lae Oak: Have you noticed how I've been leading with various types of noodles in these "to eat" lists? Noodles are my favorite category of food and the naengmyeon, a buckwheat noodle in a cold beef soup, here is amazing. The thin slivers of Asian pear on top complemented the savory soup perfectly. Jung.

Myeongdong Kyoja Main Store: The kalguksu (knife-cut noodle soup) was amazing. They only have four menu options and rotate them out seasonally, and while the line out the door on a regular weekday was intimidating, this restaurant was so efficient. Myeongdong.

Jungsik: My first two Michelin star restaurant! The cuisine is described as "New Korean fine dining" and it did not disappoint. The flavors were delicate but flavorful and recognizably Korean, and everything was beautifully plated. We booked a private dining room for lunch a few weeks in advance for a weekday since we had a fairly large group. Gangnam.

Itaewon Uyukmien: One of our serendipitous finds near the Leeum Museum. Even though I try to eat the local cuisine of places that I travel to, it's fun trying Chinese food abroad to see how different countries adapt dishes slightly to suit local tastes. This place serves a combination of Taiwanese-style beef noodle soup and Sichuan mala dishes. Itaewon.

Hong Kong Banjeom: This resataurant specializes in Korean takes on some Chinese food-inspired dishes, jjajangmyeon (a black bean sauce noodle) and jjamppong (a spicy seafood noodle soup). Multiple locations; we went to the one in Myeongdong.

One Hundred Years Native Samgyetang: The samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup) here is amazing, as perhaps expected from a restaurant advertising the dish in its name. I was recommended a couple of samgyetang places (the other was Tosokchon) and came here since we were already in the neighborhood. Hongdae. 

For next time: In Ikseon-dong, a friend told me to go to Nakwon, which has a mini railway surrounded by greenery and stones by its entrance, and Cheongsudang Cafe, which has a zen water feature and souffle cakes. I also wish I had time to try tteokkochi, fried rice cakes on a skewer, at Ppoung-nyon Ssal Nong-san, Japanese-Korean fusion at Jinjak Kakii Anguk, or bingsu and tea at Cha-teul, which all came highly recommended by another friend from Seoul. 

Trip photo diary coming soon! I still haven't gotten my film developed from this trip yet (and the one before that...pretty sure one of my Japan rolls also has the dozen or so Mexico City photos I shot when I visited last fall. oops). I've been shooting less these days because of how expensive 35mm film has gotten...gone are the days when I could get Fujifilm Superia for $4 a roll. Hoping to finally finish up my last roll in the next few weeks. Until then—

xoxo, vivian

london address book

Here's a Google Map of my favorite places in London, partly for my own reference of places I've been and partly (hopefully) for yours to peruse. I love referencing maps because they give me a sense of where things are so I can spatially plan out my itinerary. Even though I spent most of my time in London under lockdown, putting together this post made me feel like I got to do a lot during those months in between and towards the end after all. 

Vivian's London Address Book

To see / do:

Parks

St James' Park: My favorite of all the London parks: seasonal flowers, cherry blossom trees in the spring, lawns for picnics or revising or naps in the sun, a bridge with a view, central location. This was where I spent all my sunny days and a good number of overcast ones too. 

Regent's Park: Another great central London park with gorgeous landscaping. I loved wandering through thousands of roses at Queen Mary's Garden, and there's a great view of the city skyline from atop Primrose Hill.

Hyde Park: The largest park in central London, which blends seamlessly into Kensington Gardens. You'll forget you're in the middle of the city here, and it's a great spot to picnic or go for a long stroll with a friend and a coffee in hand.

 
Green Park: Look, you have to visit in late spring or early summer to understand just how green Green Park is. It's adjacent to St James Park and a great park to walk through if you need to clear your head.

Victoria Park: A nice park in east London with its own lake and pagoda, and less crowded than the central London parks. I recommend visiting on Sundays for the market so you can eat lunch there. 

Hampstead Heath: A bit further out in north London, but also more expansive than the central city parks with another great view of the city. 

Museums and Galleries

Tate Modern: One of the most iconic modern art museums in the world. The main collection is worth seeing on its own (and it's free, like all the museums listed here), but I also highly recommend the special exhibits I went to that are still on display now: the Making of Rodin (until 21 November 2021) and Yayoi Kusama Infinity Mirrors (until 12 June 2022). Caveat emptor: tickets for the latter sell out months in advance. Also, if you're 16-25, register for the Tate Collective! It's a free membership that lets you purchase exhibit tickets for £5 and get 10% off in the gift shops. 

Victoria & Albert Museum: The V&A is a favorite of mine for its wide range of art: post-classical sculptures, ancient through contemporary art from all across the world, fashion, paintings, jewelry, architecture...there's no shortage of things to see. I went for entire afternoons three separate times and still managed to discover entirely unexplored galleries each time. 

National Gallery: Located in Trafalgar Square, this is kind of art museum people think of when they think about art museums: the National Gallery features European paintings from the mid-13th century through 1900 and includes masterpieces by all the famous European painters. 

Tate Britain: The national collection of British art from 1500 through the present day. If you want to cover a wide range of art styles but don't want to spend the entire day getting lost in various exhibits, the Tate Britain is the one for you. 

The British Museum: A classic. The museum for people who don't typically like museums, according to someone who loves museums (me). There are seemingly-endless galleries dedicated to human history and culture from all corners of the world, largely acquired during the British Empire. In 2014 when I was dead-broke from the USD to GBP exchange rate, I would come here during lunch breaks to save money and feast my eyes on pieces of history like the Rosetta Stone and pieces of the Parthenon in Athens. The British Museum was one of the (many) reasons I knew I loved London in a way I could articulate: this was a place where a world-class cultural and historical experience could be had for free. This was a place to always return to in a city you would always return to: something about gazing at ancient artifacts never gets old.

Saatchi Gallery: A contemporary art gallery located in Chelsea featuring works by emerging artists. I caught the JR: Chronicles exhibit this summer and loved it. 

Victoria Miro: Another smaller contemporary art gallery with a constant rotation of works by established and emerging artists. It's located in a former Victorian furniture factory in Islington; the gallery space itself is worth checking out on its own. 

Natural History Museum: As the name implies, it's a natural history museum located in South Kensington, across the street from the V&A. I recommend visiting them separately because both are quite big, but if you're on a short trip this would be the closest to a "museum quarter" in the city and you'll cover a lot of breadth. The architecture is breathtaking too, especially the main hall and staircase in the center of the building.  

Museum of London: Fascinating museum centered on the social history of the city. After learning about the fires and plagues and bombings and other disasters that this city has weathered through, spending 2020 and 2021 in lockdown when the streets were mostly empty didn't seem so bad in comparison. 

Markets

Borough Market: One of the oldest and most famous food markets in London. There's a huge selection of vendors for fresh food to take home, or ready-to-eat street food at the market. Open daily, but recommend Wed - Sat.

Camden Market: Popular market for unique gifts, clothing, souvenirs, and other wares. Visit Cyberdog for the experience—the store felt like the closest experience to a rave or EDM club you can get without actually going to a rave or a club. Try your hand at haggling at some of the stalls. Great food selection too. Open daily. 

Lower Marsh Market: I got lunch here almost every week when I lived right around the corner. More affordable street food stalls than anything on Southbank if you're in the area. Monday - Friday. 

Portobello Road Market: The world's largest antiques market in the posh Notting Hill neighborhood. Great place to look for vintage and secondhand designer clothing too if you know what you're looking for. I'm a big fan of the Regal Duck food stall for their duck confit wraps. Saturday market.

Brick Lane Market: A bit of everything in east London and in the very hip Shoreditch neighborhood. There's some cool street art, street food, and street vendors for clothing or other wares. Spitafields Market is nearby too. Sunday market.

Victoria Park Market: Produce market and street food inside a city park. Grab a bite to eat before walking around for a relaxed weekend day. Sunday market.

Miscellaneous 

Southbank: I walked along Southbank pretty much every day the entire year I lived here, even when it was completely empty during the height of lockdown. It's the best walk to look at the skyline, access various bridges, see major landmarks, and people watch. 

Sky Gardens: Viewpoint from the top of the building in the City that looks like a walkie-talkie. The inside feels like a cross between a tropical botanic garden and a nice airport. It's free, but you need to book tickets online in advance. 

London Review Bookshop: The bookstore of the London Review of Books. If you've seen people carrying those dark green or navy blue tote bags around town, they got them here (this is to say: I got one here). There's a cute cake shop off to the side of the bookstore too; pop in for a slice of cake or cup of tea to go with your new books.

Foyles: There are multiple locations throughout the city, but the flagship store at Charing Cross Road is the place to go. Four floors of books and a cafe on the top floor. Heaven, or something close.

Harrod's: One of the most famous department stores in the world, and for good reason. Even if you're not planning on buying anything, walking through here gives you a sense of what luxury is supposed to feel like. Consider picking up some picnic treats from the Art Nouveau food hall on your way to Hyde Park. Also check out Liberty (especially around the holidays) and Selfridges.

The Shard: If you want a view at night, skip the viewing gallery and pick a bar or restaurant instead. I figure if you're going to pay for a view from London's tallest skyscraper, you might as well get a drink out of it too. 

Afternoon tea at the Rosewood (2025 update): The Art Afternoon Tea is both beautiful and delicious, with different themes throughout the year. The Rosewood is a nice combination of a classic afternoon tea spread with tasteful (and dare I say artful) interpretations of some menu items to keep things interesting. I went around Christmas in 2023, so several of their pastries matched the decor of the hotel.  

Outer London

These spots are about an hour outside of Zone 1 by tube or train, but well worth the trip. Book tickets in advance! 

Kew Gardens: The Royal Botanic Gardens houses some of the largest botanical and mycological collections in the world. Spend your time wandering the park's endless gardens and spectacular glasshouses. There were some long queues to enter the glasshouses when I went in June, but I promise you it's worth the wait. The waterlily house was my favorite. 

Hampton Court Palace: The royal palace of King Henry VIII. Learning about the history of the Tudor court and seeing the palace itself was amazing, but my favorite part was wandering through the gardens. My friend and I went in early June when the rose garden was in full bloom. 

To eat:

Padella: Handmade pasta worth queuing for. Get at least three pastas for two people; the plates are on the small side and meant to be shared anyway. The Dorset crab tagliarini was my favorite. Borough Market. 

Similar concept restaurants: Flour & Grape; Trullo; Lina Stores 

Eat Tokyo: I didn't order takeaway very frequently during lockdown, but if I did, it was almost always Eat Tokyo. I lived on the other side of the Thames so I couldn't get Deliveroo/Uber Eats, but it was only about a twenty minute walk one-way and on my way home from campus if I was studying there. The bento boxes are a great deal for the amount of food you get and everything I tried there was delicious. Multiple locations - I recommend Covent Garden.

Duck & Waffle: Highest restaurant in London, located on the 40th floor of 110 Bishopgate. Go for the view and the experience, and get the eponymous duck and waffle dish. The City.

Khanom Krok: Thai street food stall open Mon-Sat. My favorite of the Borough Market options. Mango sticky rice is amazing when it's in season. Borough Market. 

Ecco Pizza: Very reasonably priced and delicious pizza, and was close to my campus too. Covent Garden.

Lahpet: Burmese food in a modern setting, very flavorful. Get the tea leaf salad. Shoreditch.

Flat Iron: A casual and reasonably-priced steak joint. Comes with free salted caramel ice cream for dessert, or the option to stop by some other time if you want to redeem it later. Multiple locations - I went to Covent Garden. 

Café Kitsuné: Japanese-French cafe of my dreams. I'm going to be upfront with you: I gave in to what felt like a very targeted Facebook ad campaign in the middle of the winter lockdown. For weeks, I kept scrolling past the sponsored posts with modern interiors and egg sandos and peppy captions that told me: "Yes, we're open during lockdown!" Well, if I'm going to go for a long walk anyway, why not get a black cherry & black tea cream puff and a proper iced matcha latte out of it? I'm now obsessed with their caramel miso rice pudding brioche. Anyway, I went back every month after I finally gave in. Those algorithms know a sucker when they see one. Belgravia.

Lantana: Aussie style brunch and great carrot cake. Multiple locations - I went to London Bridge.

Dishoom: One of London's most famous local restaurant chains, inspired by Irani cafe culture in Mumbai. Go with a group and get lots of dishes. Multiple locations - I went to Carnaby.

Da Mario: A pizzeria that was once a local favorite of Princess Diana's. Great pasta, tiramisu, and lemon sorbet too. Kensington.

Kova Patisserie: I had my first pandemic birthday during lockdown this winter. I told myself I would go buy some cake later that week when the temperatures rose above 0°C, but it turns out I didn't need to: my best friend ordered 3 slices of cake from Kova for delivery that weekend. After that I started going there to buy myself desserts to motivate me to study after that (it kind of worked). I'm absolutely obsessed with the matcha tiramisu. The montblanc had a surprise bit of blueberry compote which punched up the sweet creaminess. Honorable mentions: matcha tart, earl grey crepe cake, strawberry sando. Honestly, just get anything (everything). Multiple locations - I went to Chinatown.

The Duck and Rice: An upscale take on Chinese food, because it's Soho. The crispy duck is shredded and served Peking duck style, with wrappers and cucumber, spring onion, and hoisin sauce. Soho.

Gail's Bakery: My favorite local cafe chain for grabbing a coffee and pastries, or for a fresh loaf of their seeded sourdough bread. Multiple locations - I mostly went to the Southbank location.

The Locals: Cute brunch spot in a posh part of town. Highly recommend the matcha pancakes, which are beautifully plated and delicious. Chelsea.

Darjeeling Express (2025 update): This is probably my favorite South Asian meal I've ever had; the paneer korma was so good I've been twice in the last couple of years, and I'm only in town for a few days at a time. Carnaby.

The Devonshire (2025 update): Came here for the Sunday roast, a British tradition I neglected to try while I was still living here. In my defense, pubs were closed for most of my year abroad, and by the time it occurred to me to have a Sunday roast it was already my last week in the city. If you don't have a reservation, go early and go for lunch. Soho. 

Honorable mentions: Kiln (Northern Thai), Soho; Barrafina (Spanish tapas), multiple locations; Crust Bros (pizza), Waterloo; CheeMc (Korean), Elephant & Castle; Comptoir Gourmand (bakery), multiple locations; Dilieto (sandwiches), Holborn; Fabrique (Swedish bakery), multiple locations.

Also, I can't end this section without giving a shoutout to Pret a Manger for supplying every pre-train breakfast, midday coffee pit stop, and quick sandwich before class. It wouldn't have been London without you. iykyk.

Day trips: 

See my posts for Bath, Brighton, Cambridge, and Oxford. 

Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions. I hope you love London too. 

xoxo, vivian

paris address book

Earlier this month, my best friend and I finally fulfilled our decade-long plan to go to Paris together for the first time. Even though I've had a whirlwind few weeks since I got back, I had the good sense of writing down all the notable places we went before I start forgetting. Below is a map I put together on Google Maps and notes for your reference. Photo diary coming soon!

Vivian's Paris Address Book

To see / do:

Musée de l'Orangerie: A small but beautiful gallery famous for housing Claude Monet's water lily paintings. 1st Arrondissement

The Louvre: Perhaps the most famous art museum in the world, and for good reason. Yvana and I spent over 10 hours here, thanks to extended hours on the first Saturday of the month. They have extended hours every week on Wednesdays and Fridays as well. 1st Arrondissement

Musée d'Orsay: A Beaux-Arts train station-turned-art museum on the Left Bank of the Seine. It has the largest collection of impressionist art and 19th century French art. 7th Arrondissement

Musée Rodin: The Hôtel Biron is home to Auguste Rodin's sculptures, drawings, and photographs. Many of his most famous sculptures, such as The Thinker and the Gates of Hell, are in the gardens in the front of the building. 7th Arrondissement

Jardin de Tuileries: Located between L'Orangerie and the Louvre and directly across the Seine from Musée d'Orsay, this garden is a perfect break between galleries. 1st Arrondissement

Jardin de Luxembourg: Another lovely garden located in Saint-Germain. Stop here to sit, relax, read a book, eat some chocolates (see chocolatier recs in my "to eat" section). 6th Arrondissement

Shakespeare & Company: Iconic independent English-language bookstore next to Notre Dame. If you've ever asked me for travel recs in my most-frequented cities I always sneak some bookstores and libraries when I can. 6th Arrondissement

Existentialist cafes - Les Deux Magots and Cafe de Flore: These classic French cafes are known haunts of French existentialists and American expats from the first half of the 20th century and right next door to each other in Saint-Germain. We went to Les Deux Magots for breakfast when it was less crowded. 6th Arrondissement

Champs-Élysées: "The world's most beautiful avenue" certainly has some of the most prettiest stores and storefronts on one street. 8th Arrondissement

Shop at Le Marais: Seemingly endless streets of international chains to local boutiques. Come here instead of Champs-Élysées for your one-stop-shopping fix. 4th Arrondissement

Wander around Montmartre: One of the best views of the city can be found on the steps of Sacré-Cœur. Charming neighborhood to walk around. We found a patisserie that won best croissant here before heading over to my favorite meal in Paris (Le Table d'Eugene). 18th Arrondissement

Château de Versailles: A short train ride outside of Paris this palace is well worth the day trip. We went on a Wednesday, one of the least busy days of the week, so the crowds were quite sparse by late afternoon. If it hadn't gotten so windy Yvana and I would have spent more time exploring the sprawling, impeccably manicured gardens behind the palace; something for next time.

To eat: 

La Table d'Eugene: My personal favorite of our Michelin-starred meals. Delicate, flavorful, and gorgeous presentation of a modern interpretation of French food. We did the prix fixe lunch and made reservations in advance. 18th Arrondissement

La Truffiere: Although the restaurant name implies truffles, we opted for the six-course discovery menu which was largely truffle-less aside from the black truffle caramel at the end of the meal. There's a separate €220 truffle tasting menu if you're up for the splurge. Still a fantastic Michelin-starred experience. 5th Arrondissement

Benoit: The third and most traditionally French of our Michelin-starred meals. The ambiance, decor, and food are comparable to what you would expect from a classic French bistro. 3rd Arronidissement

Les Comptoir de la Gastronomie: A shop and restaurant known for all things duck. Foie gras ravioli and duck breast were great. 2nd Arrondissement 

Jin Xin Lou: A Chinese takeout restaurant featuring four-course French dinners. Yvana's family friend in Paris invited us to their partial class reunion here on one of the nights where the son of the mom and pop owners of the Chinese takeout side was putting his French culinary skills to use by serving French food to dine-in guests upon request. Worth a visit if you find yourself on this side of town! 13th Arrondissement

Le Mechoui du Prince: Get Moroccan food while you're in Paris. The tagine and couscous here were excellent. 6th Arrondissement

El Nopal: My boyfriend had been telling me about the cactus quesadilla he had at this hole-in-the-wall stand by the canal for a full year until I finally made it out to Paris. Turns out it was a 5 min walk from one of the hostels we stayed at! The tacos were alright but the aforementioned quesadilla really was that good. 10th Arrondissement

Patrick Roger: My favorite of the half dozen or so chocolatiers we went to. Don't be intimidated by the avant-garde chocolate art and sterile displays—the dark chocolates are exquisite and they balance unique flavors, from jasmine green tea to yuzu citrus, very well. I recommend the Saint-Germain location so you can try them by the piece; the Marais store we stopped by only sold bars and pre-assembled boxes. 6th Arrondissement

Henri Le Roux: Best caramels I've ever had—after all, they invented salted butter caramel. Pick out a bag full of your favorite flavors or take home some chocolate bars with caramel au beurre salé. 7th Arrondissement

La Maison du Chocolat: Another amazing chocolatier worth visiting. Our favorites were the ones with pralines. 1st Arrondissement

xoxo, vivian